From Peaks to Palms: A Seasonal Saga Along Switzerland’s Scenic Rhaetian Railway. Has anyone ever longed to journey back in time by stepping directly into the scenes where history whispers to the present? As the snow melts and the Alpine meadows blossom with the first blush of spring, there’s no better time to delve into the rich tapestry of Swiss history and culture. The Rhaetian Railway beckon travellers to embark on a journey through the canton of Grisons, filled with visual splendour and historical enlightenment, where every turn presents a postcard-perfect vista and a story waiting to be told.

The Historical Train Journey: From Davos to Filisur

Circling the dates from 11 May to 27 October 2024, set your sights on when the Historical Train from Davos to Filisur will beckon with its simplistic charm. In the heart of spring, the train—a treasure trove from the 1920s—runs daily, carving out a niche of escapism that the hushed winter cannot host.

All aboard the Historical Train, image by Rhaetian Railway

Imagine stepping onto the Historical Train from Davos to Filisur, where the charm of yesteryear envelops passengers as they board. Having witnessed over a century of journeys, the carriages hold a palpable sense of history. Dressed in authentic period uniforms, the train staff enhance the feeling of stepping back in time.

This 40-minute journey is a condensed adventure filled with stunning natural landscapes and architectural marvels. Anticipate the thrill of travelling in the open scenic carriage, where nothing separates one from the raw beauty of the Grison Alps. The tactile joy of feeling the cool mountain air, smelling the fresh pine, and hearing the rush of the Zügen Gorge’s waters beckons.

Anticipate the thrill of travelling in the open scenic carriage, image by Rhaetian Railway

Crossing the famous Wiesen Viaduct, travellers can anticipate the moment when the train opens up to expansive views across the valley. In spring, this panorama transforms into a vibrant canvas, alive with the riotous colours of wildflowers and the lush greenery of newly awakened trees. This scene, perfect for reflection and photography, promises to captivate the senses and offer a profound connection to the natural world.

The views of Alpine forests when on the Historical Train over the Wiesen Viaduct, image by Rhaetian Railway

The journey’s highlight is sure to be the passage to the Landwasser Viaduct, an architectural marvel that is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also a testament to the ingenuity of early 20th-century engineering. The viaduct’s striking form, with its graceful arches—142 meters long and 65 meters high, supported by five sturdy masonry pillars—swoops dramatically into the valley below. From this vantage point, the surrounding views are breathtaking, showcasing a backdrop of steep, forest-clad cliffs and the serpentine flow of the river cutting through the valley floor.

Landwasser Express Adventure: A Choo Choo Train ride to the base of Landwasser Viaduct

From the majestic heights of the Swiss Alps, travellers are drawn irresistibly toward the Landwasser Viaduct, an engineering marvel best appreciated from its very base. The Landwasser Express, affectionately dubbed the ‘Choo Choo Train’—a charming rubber-wheeled mini train—offers a delightful journey through the Alpine countryside, presenting views as breathtaking as the viaduct.

After a leisurely 30-minute ride through a picturesque mountainside village within the Parc Ela nature preserve, the train’s final stop is directly at the foot of the Landwasser Viaduct. Here, passengers disembark to experience the awe-inspiring structure of one of Switzerland’s most iconic landmarks. This unique vantage point offers an unrivalled perspective, where the monumental limestone pillars soar upward, akin to the spires of a grand natural cathedral.

The joy of travelling on the Landwasser Express to Landwasser Viaduct, image by Rhaetian Railway

Positioned at the base of the Landwasser Viaduct, visitors find themselves in a spot where the iconic red trains seem miniature against the towering stonework. It’s a place that instils a moment of sheer awe—as the trains enter and exit the heart of the mountain, their passage frames a perfect symphony of nature’s grandeur and human creativity.

For photography enthusiasts and admirers of stark natural beauty blended with architectural ingenuity, this spot offers an unparalleled opportunity to capture the perfect fusion of both.

Gourmet Journey on the 1930s Gourmino Dining Car

An exquisite escape from the mundane awaits in the royal blue Gourmino dining car, reminiscent of a time when travel was a grand affair. This vintage chariot, adorned with walnut, brass, and brocade, glides between Chur and St. Moritz, its expansive windows framing the colourful Alpine vistas that scroll by leisurely. In this elegant setting, time seems to slow, allowing guests to savour the moment—a rare commodity, given the limited seats available for each journey.

The interiors of the Gourmino dining car, image by Rhaetian Railway

The air within the Gourmino is laced with the nostalgic grandeur of the 1930s, yet the flavours of Grisons command travellers’ attention. Local products, from the Viamala cheese to the organic Langwieser ewe’s milk cheese, are transformed into edible art by their onboard chefs. Imagine indulging in a cheese plate with the region’s finest, accompanied by tomato apricot chutney and handmade pear bread. The Grisons barley soup, enriched with air-dried beef, paves the way for a hearty Ghackets & Hörnli, a comforting melody of minced beef and macaroni, topped with a crown of roasted onions and apple compote. The finale? A Valaisanne apricot pie that sings beneath a dollop of whipped cream—all paired with select wines from the vineyards of Grisons and Valais.

Enjoy the flavours of Grisons in the Gourmino dining car, image by Rhaetian Railway

As the train winds through the living postcard of the Alpine landscape, diners enjoy their meals amid views of mountains and lush valleys, complemented by the warm, inviting aromas of freshly prepared dishes, making every meal a memorable event. Inside the Rhaetian Railway, travellers savour the delectable cuisine and the panoramic views, ensuring a feast for both the palate and the eyes.

Bernina Express Experience: A Majestic Traverse Along the Albula Line

For those enchanted by history and the splendour of the Alps, the Bernina Express from Chur to St. Moritz offers a captivating journey. Spanning 130 kilometres through the Swiss Alps, this iconic railway line not only showcases breathtaking landscapes but also threads through the Graubünden mountains, connecting regions steeped in cultural and economic significance.

As the train sets off, it carries passengers along a historic route that has linked isolated Alpine communities for over a century. The railway is a feat of early 20th-century engineering, designed to connect remote areas of Switzerland with the bustling cities to the north and south. From the engineering marvels that navigate the challenging Alpine terrain, across the Landwasser Viaduct to the ancient towns like St. Moritz, which has long been a nexus of luxury and winter sports, history enthusiasts will find the route offers a meaningful connection to the past alongside its natural beauty.

The Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur on the Albula Line, image by Rhaetian Railway

The journey offers a visual feast: verdant valleys rise to meet towering, snow-capped peaks, presenting scenes worthy of any explorer’s bucket list. Departing from Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city, the train transitions from the historical ambience to the raw, stunning beauty of the Alps. The large, clear windows of the express serve as personal frames to the majestic peaks and deep, picturesque valleys—each landscape a postcard come to life.

Upon arrival in St. Moritz, passengers find themselves at the crossroads of luxury and tradition. This glamorous destination invites visitors to meander through boutique-lined streets, taste the gourmet offerings that reflect the region’s culinary heritage, and immerse themselves in the storied past of this alpine paradise through its museums and cultural sites.

Bernina Express Experience: Bernina Line from Peaks to Palms

The continuation of the Bernina Express from St. Moritz to Tirano is a seamless glide from the rugged Alpine grandeur to the sun-kissed allure of Mediterranean landscapes. Along this stretch of the Rhätische Bahn (Rhaetian Railway), the train ascends to some of the highest points accessible by this historic line, presenting a view into the untouched wilderness of the Alps.

From the expansive windows, travellers can envision the sight of the Morteratsch Glacier. Its vast, icy expanses are the epitome of Alpine beauty, raw and majestic. The route exemplifies the railway’s engineering mastery as it elegantly traverses this challenging terrain, ascending to an impressive altitude of 2,253 meters at Ospizio Bernina. At this height, the panorama feels like standing on the edge of the world.

One of the most striking stops is Alp Grüm, accessible solely by this train. Passengers can step out here into the crisp mountain air and embrace panoramic views of the sprawling Palü Glacier, providing a perfect backdrop for deep reflection and connection with the vast natural beauty.

The Bernina Express at the Alp Grüm station, image by Rhaetian Railway

The journey then spirals towards the border via the Brusio Circular Viaduct, designed to navigate steep gradients smoothly. On this route, the open carriages turn the trip into a dynamic panorama, offering unobstructed views of Europe’s most stunning landscapes. As the landscape shifts, the cold, craggy peaks give way to approaching vineyards, orchards, and the warm breezes of Tirano, providing a stark but beautiful contrast to the journey’s alpine beginnings.

The impressive Brusio Circular Viaduct, image by Rhaetian Railway

As someone who loves unearthing new experiences and diving into local cultures, the Rhaetian Railway is an ideal gateway to Switzerland’s hidden gems. Riding through the Alpine peaks on historic trains, savouring local flavours on the Gourmino dining car, and marvelling at engineering feats such as the Landwasser Viaduct resonate with my desire for authenticity and adventure.

Each leg of this journey promises to satisfy my curiosity and enrich my appreciation for the traditions and natural beauty of the canton of Grisons. As someone who cherishes the independence of discovering the countryside by rail, anticipating what stories will unfold at each stop—a secluded Alpine village or the historic streets of St. Moritz—is exhilarating. ◼

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© This article was first published online in Apr 2024 – World Travel Magazine.